Nicolas Potel Chambertin Clos de Beze 2006
Sourced from two parcels (average vine age of 50 years) showing the richness and finesse of Gevrey. The fruit is sorted as it arrives and allowed to macerate under temperature control for several days before fermentation begins naturally, also under thermoregulation, with daily pumping over. The vatting lasts 15 to 20 days before a light pressing. The musts are allowed to settle for a minimum of two weeks to permit removal of the gross lees. The wine is then transferred to barrel by gravity. Nicolas uses on average 20% new oak, 50% second use. As the cellar is cold, the maturation is long, from 16 to 18 months. The wines remain on their lees until the following harvest. It is important to note that even the ones purchased are brought to Nuits still on their lees. The lunar cycle is closely followed when working the cuvées, in order to retain a maximum of aromas. The wines are racked with the falling moon and retain more, and purer flavors. In the early spring the wines are racked once more, again with the falling moon, in order to carry out the final blends. Food Match: White meats, turkey, pork, lamb, fowl, duck.
(Score RangeScore: 92-94. —Allen Meadows, January 2008.
From three sources, Potel managed to assemble seven barrels of 2006 Chambertin Clos de Beze. Smelling almost like a blend of great Pinot and Gewurztraminer with its bouquet of roses, black pepper, resin, ripe red fruits, and roasted meats, it comes onto the palate with an oily texture; resinous, spicy pungency; intense, sappy red fruit; and a peppery bite. A tide of tannin - not doubt in part the legacy of hail - rises up as if to do battle with this virtuous alliance, and the outcome when bottles are opened on future occasions may not be certain. But even just after bottling when I would expect it to be most susceptible to tannic creep, the distinctively complex, site-typical virtues win out in the long finish. If I were lucky to own a cache of this, I would not wait many years before popping the next cork, but nevertheless I expect this wine to deliver more than a decade of fascination. (92+)Score: 92. —David Schildknecht, December 2009.
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