Domaine Boudin is an outpost of artisanal, hand-crafted wine in a region that is dominated by negociants, striving for purity and terroir-expressiveness by eschewing oak. Another distinguishing factor of Boudin's is the fact that all plantings have come from massal selections of their own Chablis vines rather than re-planting with Chardonnay clones from other areas of Burgundy, a more common practice in the region.
The 2011 Chablis L'Homme Mort flows from the glass with slate, butter, smoke, succulent peaches and flowers. It is complex, earthy and distinctive, all at the same time. This is one of the most idiosyncratic wines in Chablis, but when it is on it can be fabulous, as it is this year. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.
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