The end result is an amazing set of exquisite wines with tremendous complexity, elegant, supple textures, fabulous purity of aroma and fruit flavor and unbelievable length.
The 80+ year old vines that inform Laurent's 2008 Mazis Chambertin Vieilles Vignes exhibit the proclivity found also in his Grands Echezeaux (another of his wines vinified by what he calls - not deprecatingly - "peasant methods") of achieving ripe flavors at strikingly low levels of alcohol, in this instance 12.2% natural alcohol - which he left untouched - despite an October 15 harvest. (I hope somebody is working on perpetuating and propagating this vine selection!) The density and savory intensity here suggests a coulee of wild berries mingled with herbal essences and salted, air-dried beef, and underlain by crushed stone. There is a sense of coolness; clarity of fruit; vanishing refinement of tannins; and mineral-like underpinning here that puts one slightly in mind of white wine and is distinctively 2008. In fact, I can't recall a previous Laurent wine that was this tart-edged or possessed of such sheer refreshment, though at the same time it is profoundly complex, notes of bitter chocolate emerging in a vibratory finish as though they were notes several steps below the bar line, while high-tones oscillate in the treble, setting my salivary glands into overdrive. Expect 20-25 years of grandeur.
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